Homosalate

What is homosalate and what is it used for?

Homosalate is an oil-soluble ester formed by combining salicylic acid with an alcohol. It mainly absorbs UVB rays, so it contributes to protection against the rays that cause sunburn.

Because it is also a good solvent, it helps some powdered UVA filters disperse evenly in the formula and lightens the product's texture on the skin. This is why for many years it was one of the key ingredients in many sunscreens.

Which products contain it?

• Sunscreens, sun lotions and sun sprays
• Face creams and make-up with SPF
• Some lip balms

On the label it appears as Homosalate and is usually found together with other filters such as octocrylene and avobenzone.

Is it harmful? The scientific assessment

The concern about homosalate is the weak hormone-like effects seen in laboratory studies and the fact that it can be absorbed through the skin. For this reason the substance was placed on the EU's priority list for review of potential endocrine disruptors.

The SCCS, the European Commission's scientific committee, concluded that the previously permitted high level did not provide a sufficient margin of safety. As a result, the permitted level of homosalate in the EU was lowered significantly and its use restricted to face products, with propellant spray products excluded. Because Turkish cosmetics legislation is aligned with the EU, this restriction applies in Türkiye too.

In the US, the FDA has also asked for additional safety data on homosalate. This does not mean the substance has been proven to harm people; but it shows that regulators are being cautious and that the scientific question is not yet closed.

Who should be careful?

• Pregnant and breastfeeding women: Because of the uncertainty about hormonal effects, mineral-filter products may be preferable; you can ask your doctor any questions you have.
• Children: Because it is applied often over a large body surface, mineral-filter products are generally recommended for children.
• People sensitive to salicylates: Skin reactions can rarely occur.

What to do when you see it on a label

Not using sunscreen at all carries a far greater risk than any possible risk from homosalate. Because current products for the EU market are formulated to the new limits, you can continue to use a homosalate cream on your face. If you want an alternative for the whole body or during sensitive periods, you can look at mineral-filter products containing zinc oxide.

The position of homosalate on the label gives you a rough idea of its level in the product. Because the new EU rules mean other filters are now being used instead of homosalate in body products, the ingredients of products on the market are changing over time. This is why it is worth checking the label on products bought abroad or from old stock.