Fragrance allergens: what is behind the word “parfum” on the label?

Why is “parfum” written as a single word?

Cosmetics legislation requires every ingredient to be listed by its INCI name, but there is an exception for fragrance blends. Because fragrance formulas are trade secrets for manufacturers, the blend can be listed on the label under a single general name: Parfum. The same rule applies to the term “Aroma”.

This blend may consist of natural essential oils, plant extracts and synthetic fragrance molecules. Whether it is “natural” or “synthetic” does not in itself determine the allergy risk: many of the best-known fragrance allergens are also found in natural sources such as lavender, lemon, ylang-ylang and oakmoss.

Fragrance allergens that must be declared

So that consumers can be informed, EU law requires the fragrance ingredients that most often cause allergies to be listed separately by name, in addition to the word “Parfum”, when they are present in a product above a certain threshold. This threshold is 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products; in other words, even much smaller amounts show up on the label of leave-on products. Turkish cosmetics legislation is aligned with the EU on this point.

For many years this list consisted of 26 substances. With Regulation (EU) 2023/1545, published in 2023, the EU added 56 further fragrance allergens identified by the SCCS, bringing the total to around 80 substances (because some are defined as groups, sources give the total as between 80 and 82). Under the EU transition timetable, products placed on the market for the first time after 31 July 2026 must comply with the new rule, while products with old labels can be sold until 31 July 2028. So it is not surprising that you are seeing more and more fragrance allergen names on labels.

• Linalool and Limonene: These are the most common names. On their own they are weak allergens, but the oxidation products formed when they come into contact with air can be stronger allergens.
• Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Eugenol, Coumarin, Cinnamal, Hexyl Cinnamal: These are often found in floral, spicy and citrus scents.
• Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate: These are used both as fragrances and sometimes as preservatives or solvents.
• Evernia Prunastri (oakmoss) and Evernia Furfuracea extracts: These are considered among the strong allergens.
• Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde (HICC), Atranol and Chloroatranol: These are banned in cosmetic products in the EU because of their allergy potential.

“Fragrance-free” and “unscented” are not the same thing

Two similar-sounding terms are often used on labels, and the difference between them matters for sensitive skin:

• Fragrance-free: No perfume or essential oil has been added to give the product a scent. The product may have a faint smell coming from its own raw materials.
• Unscented: The product is perceived as having no smell; however, this can also mean that a “masking” fragrance has been used to cover the smell of the raw materials.

There may not always be a binding, detailed legal definition of these two terms. The most reliable way is to look not at the claim on the front but at the ingredient list: it should not contain Parfum, Fragrance, Aroma, essential oils (for example Lavandula Angustifolia Oil) or the allergen names above.

How does fragrance allergy show up?

Fragrance allergy usually appears as allergic contact dermatitis: redness, itching, swelling or flaking where the product was applied. Symptoms do not appear immediately after contact but often within a day or two. This delay can make it hard to work out which product caused the problem.

Allergy develops over time: one day you may become sensitised to a product you have used without problems for years. Once it has developed, it is usually permanent. This is why reducing the number of fragranced products can be helpful, especially for people with eczema, people with a damaged skin barrier and occupational groups who wash their hands often.

Fragrance can also trigger headaches or asthma-like symptoms in some people, not only through the skin but through inhalation. This can also happen through a mechanism other than allergy.

If you suspect a fragrance allergy, one practical approach is to switch to fragrance-free versions of the products that touch your skin (cream, lotion, deodorant, shampoo and detergent) for a few weeks and see how your skin responds. If your symptoms ease noticeably, that is a clue; a definite diagnosis, however, still requires a patch test. Keeping a note of product changes during this time is also useful when you talk to your dermatologist.

Patch testing: diagnosis instead of guesswork

The most reliable way to find out which substance you are allergic to is a patch test carried out by a dermatologist. In this test, standard series of allergens are applied with tape, usually on the back, and assessed at set intervals. The standard series also include fragrance mixes and some individual fragrance allergens.

Home trials such as “rubbing some on your wrist and waiting” can give you an idea but are no substitute for a diagnosis. Trying a new product on a small area, such as behind the ear or inside the elbow, for a few days is a sensible preliminary precaution, especially for sensitive skin. If you see a clear reaction, stop using the product and see a dermatologist.

Fragrance in cleaning products

Fragrance is also common in detergents, fabric softeners, surface cleaners and air fresheners. Scents used in laundry products can stay in fabric and touch the skin all day. For people with sensitive skin, choosing a fragrance-free detergent and using less fabric softener can be a sensible start. We cover this in our detergent and fabric softener guide.

Some fragrance formulas may use solvents such as diethyl phthalate to fix the scent. These substances are often not listed separately on the label, because they are considered part of the fragrance blend.

Room sprays, scented candles and car air fresheners are also part of fragrance exposure at home. Even though these products are not applied to the skin, the fragrance ingredients released into the air can contribute to headaches or airway irritation in sensitive people. If you use them because you like the scent, airing the room regularly is a good balance.