Fragrance (Parfum)

What is parfum and why is it written as one word?

A product's scent is a complex formula made up of natural essential oils, synthetic fragrance molecules, solvents and fixatives. Because fragrance formulas are considered trade secrets, the rules allow them to be declared collectively on the label as “Parfum” or “Fragrance” instead of listing each component. For food flavourings and toothpastes, the term “Aroma” is used for the same purpose.

This means the same word “Parfum” can stand for completely different contents in two different products. Consumers cannot know the exact mixture; known allergens, however, must be listed separately.

Fragrance allergens that must be declared in the EU

So that the fragrance substances most likely to cause allergy do not hide behind the word “Parfum”, the EU has long required 26 fragrance allergens to be listed separately in the ingredient list when they exceed a certain threshold. This threshold is lower for leave-on products than for rinse-off products. The list includes, for example, linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol, coumarin, eugenol and cinnamal.

In recent years, in line with scientific assessments, the EU has substantially expanded this list and also requires certain essential oils to be declared by name; the new rules are being phased in over transition periods. In addition, some fragrance substances, such as butylphenyl methylpropional, known as lilial, have been banned outright on safety grounds. Turkish legislation is aligned with the EU.

Is it harmful? The scientific assessment

The most significant risk of fragrance is contact allergy. Fragrance allergy is among the allergies most often detected by patch testing in dermatology clinics. Once sensitivity has developed it is usually permanent, and the person may also react to other products containing the same substance.

Apart from this, strong scents can trigger headaches or asthma symptoms in some people. Diethyl phthalate, sometimes used as a fixative in fragrance formulas, is a separate subject of debate. Nevertheless, fragrance substances in cosmetics cause no problems for the vast majority of the general population when used within the permitted limits.

The difference between “fragrance-free” and “unscented”

• Fragrance-free: No perfume ingredients have been added to give the product a scent. This is the term people with a fragrance allergy should really look for.
• Unscented: The product has no noticeable smell; however, a masking fragrance may have been added to cover the smell of the raw materials. For this reason it is not sufficient reassurance for people with a fragrance allergy.

In both cases, the most reliable approach is to read the ingredient list: it should not include “Parfum”, “Fragrance”, “Aroma” or the names of essential oils.

What to do when you see it on a label

If your skin has no problems, there is no reason not to use products containing fragrance. If you have eczema, rosacea or sensitive skin, fragrance-free options may be preferable, especially for leave-on products such as face creams and body lotions. In baby products, too, fragrance-free formulas carry a lower risk of allergy.