Phenoxyethanol

What is phenoxyethanol and what does it do?

Phenoxyethanol is an oily liquid with a faint rose-like scent that belongs to the glycol ether class. Although it is often said to occur in trace amounts in green tea, the substance used in cosmetics is synthesised in the laboratory.

It is effective against bacteria, especially gram-negative bacteria; because its effect against fungi is more limited, it is usually used together with other preservatives such as ethylhexylglycerin, sorbic acid or benzyl alcohol. As concerns about parabens grew, many manufacturers switched to phenoxyethanol.

Which products contain it?

• Moisturising creams, serums and lotions
• Make-up products, especially mascara and foundation
• Wet wipes and baby care products
• Shampoos, conditioners and shower gels; some perfumes and vaccines

Is it harmful? The scientific assessment

The SCCS has found phenoxyethanol safe in all cosmetic products at a maximum concentration of 1%, including for children. The CIR similarly considers its use at up to 1% safe. At this level, exposure is far below the doses at which side effects were seen in animal studies.

France's medicines and health products agency (ANSM) recommended caution about phenoxyethanol in products applied to the nappy area of children under 3, which sparked public debate. In a subsequent EU-level assessment, the SCCS concluded that the 1% limit also provides a sufficient safety margin for children.

Contact allergy is uncommon; phenoxyethanol is considered one of the preservatives least likely to cause allergy. When used at high concentrations around the eyes, it can cause mild stinging or irritation. The pure substance is harmful if swallowed, so it is important to keep products out of children's reach.

Who should be careful?

• People with a sensitive eye area: If you feel stinging from eye creams and mascara, you can try products with different preservatives.
• Those who want to be extra cautious with baby products: For the nappy area, products with fewer additives and a short ingredient list can be chosen.
• People with a confirmed phenoxyethanol allergy: Checking the label is enough; the substance is always listed by its INCI name.

What to do when you see it on a label

Phenoxyethanol is a well-tolerated and extensively assessed option among preservatives. Compared with strong allergens such as methylisothiazolinone, it is much lower risk. Remember that preservative-free products carry a risk of microbial spoilage, which is a separate danger in terms of skin infections. Especially with products used around the eyes, such as mascara, bacterial contamination can lead to eye infections, so it is important that an effective preservative is present and that you stick to the period-after-opening (such as “12M” on the open-jar symbol).