Parabens: facts and myths. Which are permitted and which are banned?

What are parabens and why are they used?

Parabens are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. They have been used for decades in cosmetics, medicines and some foods to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi. Every product that contains water becomes a favourable environment for microbes once it has been opened. A cream or lotion without a preservative can quickly spoil, go mouldy or harbour microbes that can cause eye and skin infections.

Parabens are so widespread because they are effective against a broad range of microbes at low concentrations, they are cheap and they have a low tendency to cause allergies. On intact skin, paraben allergy is rare compared with many other preservatives.

The job of a preservative is to protect the product not only during its shelf life but also after you start using it. Every time you dip a finger into the jar or leave the bottle open in the bathroom, new microbes get into the product. The preservative system keeps the product safe despite this repeated contamination for the period-after-opening shown on the label (such as “12M” on the open-jar symbol).

Not all parabens are the same

Parabens are named according to the chain length of the molecule. Short-chain parabens (methyl, ethyl) and long-chain parabens (propyl, butyl) have been assessed differently. Following the opinions of the SCCS, the European Union's independent scientific committee, the rules are as follows:

• Methylparaben and ethylparaben: These are the most studied parabens. They are considered safe within the limits permitted in the EU. In our app they are rated in a low-to-moderate range.
• Propylparaben and butylparaben: These are permitted, but a lower total concentration limit has been set. Their use is also banned in leave-on products intended for application to the nappy area of children under three. Because of this precaution, our app rates them in a slightly higher range than methylparaben.
• Isopropyl-, isobutyl-, phenyl-, benzyl- and pentylparaben: These are banned in cosmetic products in the EU. This is not because they have been proven harmful, but because manufacturers did not provide enough data to assess their safety.

Because Turkish cosmetics legislation is aligned with the EU, the same restrictions apply to products sold in Türkiye.

Common concerns about parabens

Concern about parabens has two main sources. The first is that laboratory studies have shown parabens can mimic the hormone oestrogen very weakly. However, this effect is many times weaker than the body's own oestrogen, and it increases as the chain gets longer. The additional limits placed on long-chain parabens exist precisely because of this precaution.

The second is a study that reported finding parabens in breast tissue. This finding does not show that parabens cause cancer, and the study itself did not establish any such cause-and-effect relationship. In the assessments carried out to date, there is no evidence that parabens used within the permitted limits cause breast cancer.

In the end, scientific committees have chosen to set limits substance by substance rather than ban parabens altogether. This is how risk assessment naturally works: even substances from the same family are considered individually.

What does “paraben-free” tell you?

“Paraben-free” is a marketing phrase, not a safety certificate. In fact, the European Commission's technical guide on cosmetic claims points out that “free from...” claims that denigrate a legally permitted ingredient can mislead consumers. In other words, a product not containing parabens does not automatically make it safer.

If a product does not contain parabens, it most likely contains another preservative. What matters is which preservative has been chosen and how your skin reacts to it. In some cases, the ingredient used in place of parabens may be more problematic in terms of allergy.

What is used instead of parabens?

• Phenoxyethanol: One of the most common alternatives today. It is permitted in the EU up to a set maximum, and at that limit it has been considered safe, including for children.
• Sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate: Low-concern preservatives that are also used in food; they generally work well in acidic formulas.
• Benzyl alcohol: Used as a preservative; it is also one of the fragrance allergens that must be declared.
• Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) and MCI: Their use increased during the move away from parabens; they were then banned in leave-on products in the EU because of a marked rise in contact allergy cases.
• Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives such as DMDM Hydantoin: These can cause problems for people sensitive to formaldehyde; our app rates them in a high range.

The MIT example holds an important lesson: wholesale changes made to avoid one ingredient can sometimes lead to a less studied or more allergenic alternative. We cover preservatives in general in our preservatives in cosmetics guide.

Who might want to watch out for parabens?

People diagnosed with a paraben allergy should avoid products containing these substances; this diagnosis can only be made with a patch test carried out by a dermatologist. In some people, parabens can cause irritation when applied to eczema-prone or damaged skin, while the same product may cause no problems on intact skin.

Parents who want to be more cautious when choosing products during pregnancy or for young children may prefer products without long-chain parabens (propyl, butyl). However, having used a product containing methylparaben is no cause for concern. For tips on reading the labels of baby products, see our baby and children's products guide.

In practice, the healthiest approach is to look not at whether a product contains parabens but at how it affects your skin. If you notice redness, itching or a rash after using a product, only a patch test can show whether the culprit is a paraben or fragrance or another preservative.