Retinol (Vitamin A)

What is retinol and what does it do?

Retinol is the alcohol form of vitamin A. When applied to the skin, it is converted in the cells first into retinaldehyde and then into the active form, retinoic acid. This active form increases the rate at which skin cells renew and supports collagen production.

With regular use it can help reduce fine lines, sun spots and the look of pores, and smooth the skin's texture. In acne-prone skin it can reduce clogging of the pores. The effects usually appear gradually over a period of weeks.

Which products contain it?

• Night creams and anti-ageing serums
• Eye creams
• Acne and pore care products
• Some body lotions

On the label it is listed as Retinol. Its esters, such as Retinyl Palmitate or Retinyl Acetate, are gentler but weaker relatives. Prescription retinoids (for example tretinoin) are medicines and differ from cosmetic retinol.

Is it harmful? The scientific assessment

The most common known side effect of retinol in cosmetics is the adjustment period known as retinisation: redness, dryness, flaking and a mild burning sensation. These effects mostly occur in the first few weeks and can be reduced by starting with a low strength and slowly increasing how often you use it.

Because retinol thins the outer layer of the skin, it can increase sensitivity to the sun. It also breaks down in light itself, so it is mostly recommended for use at night.

The EU's scientific committee, the SCCS, has pointed out that when the amount from cosmetics is added to the vitamin A obtained from food and supplements, total intake may be high in some people. As a result, the EU has set separate upper limits for retinol and its esters in face products and in body lotions; the limit for body lotions is lower. Turkish cosmetics legislation is also aligned with the EU.

Retinol in pregnancy

High-dose vitamin A taken by mouth and prescription retinoids are known to be able to affect the baby's development during pregnancy. The amount of cosmetic retinol absorbed through the skin is much lower; even so, as a cautious approach, it is recommended to consult your doctor before starting or continuing products containing retinol during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Alternatives such as niacinamide can be discussed for this period.

What to do when you see it on a label

• Start two or three nights a week with a pea-sized amount; increase the frequency as your skin gets used to it.
• Always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day.
• Using it on the same night as strong exfoliating products such as salicylic acid can increase irritation.
• To reduce dryness, you can support it with moisturisers containing ceramides or panthenol.